Lease vs. Buy Calculator (Car)

See the real total cost of leasing versus buying — side by side, using the actual numbers from your quotes.

Educational estimate, not financial advice. This tool does the arithmetic on the numbers you enter; it doesn't know your situation and doesn't recommend a purchase.

The car

The negotiated selling price — the same number for both options.

Your state and local rate combined. From your quote or your state's DMV site.

Lease option

Also the comparison horizon: both options are costed over this many months.

On your lease quote (ask if it's not shown). If you only have an interest rate, divide it by 2,400 — e.g. 6% APR → 0.0025.

From your quote. What the leasing company says the car is worth at lease end.

Buy option

Can be longer than the lease term — any balance still owed at the comparison horizon is counted against buying.

Your estimate of what the car sells or trades for at the horizon. The lease's residual value is one reasonable starting point.

Optional

If one option ties up more cash at signing, that cash could have been earning a return. Leave blank to skip this line.

Run the numbers →

What this calculator actually compares

Most lease-vs-buy arguments compare the wrong number: the monthly payment. A lease payment is almost always lower than a loan payment on the same car — that's how leases are built, not evidence that leasing is cheaper. The honest comparison is total cost over the same stretch of time, counting what you get back at the end.

This calculator runs both options over your lease term and totals every dollar out and in:

Optionally, it adds one more honest line: the return the extra upfront cash in one option could have earned if you'd invested it instead.

Every input comes from you — your quote's money factor and residual, your loan APR, your tax rate. The calculator invents nothing. For the formulas themselves, in plain English, see how the math works.

What it deliberately leaves out

Fees (acquisition, disposition, registration), insurance differences, maintenance, mileage overage and wear-and-tear charges, and lease-end purchase options. These vary too much to guess responsibly — add the ones from your own quotes to whichever side they belong to. Details on each are in the reference page.

Frequently asked questions

Where do I find my money factor?

On the lease worksheet, or by asking the dealer directly — they must disclose it. It looks like a small decimal, such as 0.00125. If you're quoted an interest rate instead, divide it by 2,400 to convert (6% → 0.0025).

Why does the buy side get credit for resale value?

Because at the end of the comparison window the buyer owns a car and the lessee doesn't. Counting the loan payments without counting the car would make buying look far worse than it is. The trade-off: that credit depends on your resale estimate, which is a guess — try a pessimistic one and see if the verdict flips.

Is the lower monthly payment ever the right reason to lease?

Cash flow is real — if the lease payment is what fits your budget, that matters. But this calculator's job is to show what that lower payment costs you in total, so you can make that trade with your eyes open.

How is sales tax handled?

The lease side taxes each monthly payment (how most US states do it); the buy side taxes the full price and rolls it into the loan. A few states tax leases differently — check yours, and see the tax notes.